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Had the same problems around the wheel arches and above the engine
compartment where the windscreen wiper motor is fixed, I welded
in a new shelf and coated with fibreglass to prevent rain water
running through into the cab and under the rubber mat as I suspect
this is what caused the extensive rot to the floor.

By the way, what is the issue with the cab heater hose from the
blower to the heater matrix?? Have been to see a handful of vans
at breakers yards and none have them fitted!!
I noticed that the roof leaked when it rained so purchased a tarpaulin
to cover the whole van while I continued to work inside, I figured
on leaving the roof until the interior was finished in the hope
that the weather would be better in spring, It’s December
now by the way.
Time to start on the interior. After having the experience from
fitting out my VW a few years ago I had some ideas of what I wanted
to achieve. I like to keep everything practical and functional
so after changing my mind for the ‘ilionth time decided to
just get on with it. Starting with the roof, I ripped out the aluminium
lining and old insulation, removed any rot and red leaded where
necessary. This was probably the worst job so far, the insulation
got everywhere and I itched for days. I’m sure it didn’t
do my respiratory system any good either. I then stuck a heater
on and left the van for a couple of days to ensure it was dry and
to get over the extreme discomfort of the glassfibre.
After owning a Bedford single decker many years ago, which I panelled
out in wood, and remembering the warm feel it had, I paid a visit
to the local B&Q to do some pricing up. I was pleasantly surprised
to find that a pack of tongue and groove cladding was only £2.48!!
That made my mind up for me as I grabbed enough packs to keep me
going.
Also grabbed a pack of insulation which was just as uncomfortable
to put in as the old was to rip out!!

The roof went in well and after a coat of woodseal looks great.
As you can see from this pic, also decided to paint out some of
the windows, these will be insulated and panelled over later, the
blue on the nearest window is the tarp outside. The roof was easy
to fit apart from the itchy scratchy stuff, I used self tapping
screws and secured the wood directly onto the roof supports. Ensuring
all the screws are in line gives the job a professional look. I
love the result!

Floor in and red leaded, total cost £27 including under seal.
Quote from garage £500!! Does make you wonder?
I wanted a nice
big area to chill out in, the VW was much loved but it was hard
to get comfortable with any more than one reasonable sized adult
in there, the whole of the rear of the Dodge therefore would be
reserved for sprawling out, this would also double up as a double
using the dining table to fill the gap in the “C” shaped
seating area. This meant that the rear doors would be panelled over
which I don’t mind at all. Against the back door under the
seat I installed a 150 litre water tank. This was by far the most
expensive item so far at over £100 but after running out of
water in the VW on more than one occasion and having to totally break
camp to drive off to find some I figure it’s more than worth
it.
I’ve made the two seats that run down the sides of the van
wide enough and long enough to be used as single beds if need be
in case me and Katie have an argument and want to sleep in separa…………….
Only joking, for when the kids are with us. This left the problem
of another bed for Katie and me. After lots of ideas, scribblings
and suggestion the solution has been to construct another double
bed over the seating area using spars and lats that could be removed
and stowed when not required.

After seeing the “Bunk” bed starting to take shape,
I think it’s going to work fine.

I have used some rounded skirting board on top of the spar against
the back doors to make a slot for the lats, these are stepped away
from the spar to the depth of the cladding to enable the job to have
a flush finish.

Panelled the rear of the van and the “bunk” slot worked
out fine.
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